| Articles: 1: Puppy Food and Hip Development 2: Milk Replacement Formulas 3: Perks for Pups 4: Puppy Warranty 5: Tips for taking pictures 6: How to read OFA Numbering sequences. |
Puppy Food and Hip Development
The first thing to recognize about hip dysplasia (after having selected the best dogs you can for breeding) is that it is a
developmental disease. While it is believed there is a definite genetic component (many components, it appears), it is something
that is not present at birth, but which occurs as the puppy grows. Having a "management plan" will help you minimize
environmental influences which could negate any genetic gains your breeding selection might make.
The goal is to feed for "minimum maintenance." In other words, you feed to give the puppy adequate nutrition for development of
his vital systems while keeping his growth as slow as possible. This helps build stronger, denser bones and provides less stress
on joints such as hips and knees during that developing phase. Because gross hip changes occur around the same time as
teething, it is important to keep the puppy on this regimen through teething--to approximately 5 months of age. After the main
teething is done (5-6 months), you can begin to increase the puppy's food intake to allow him to grow into his genetic potential
(however large [but not fat] that may be). Slow growth does not interfere with the dog's eventual size; his genes will determine that,
so long as he has been fed a balanced diet which gives him "enough" minerals and nutrients to grow. What slow growth does do
is keep him from looking the roly-poly puppy that everyone loves to see. He may be smaller, with "less" bone, than puppies his age
who have been fed an abundance of food at an early age. Do not let that deter you; keep your goal in mind--the long term health
and well being of your puppies! He will get where he was going and be stronger for your efforts.
Here is an outline of what I feel are the important steps in rearing puppies for improved hips:
* If you have fewer than 3 puppies in the litter, you will need to begin intervention while the pups are still nursing. The goal is to
keep weight gain/growth to no more than 1.5 oz. per day. Thus you must weigh each puppy daily for at least the first two weeks;
after that you can weigh every-other-day to be sure you are on target. If a pup is gaining too rapidly, each time that puppy begins to
nurse, pull him off and put him on the opposite side of the whelping box--make him work to get to that feeding source. Without
enough competition, puppies may just "latch on" and nurse constantly without any effort. If you have more than 3 puppies, you
should still weigh every day for the first two weeks (at least) to be sure the weight gains are within a reasonable range.
* At six weeks, depending on birth weight, the pups should ideally weigh about 6 lbs., but no more than 7 lbs. At this point, feed
each puppy individually so that you are controlling exactly how much food that puppy gets. The ideal feeding schedule at this age is
4 meals per day, but if you can't manage that, 3 will do. As a rule of thumb I would start with 1/4 cup of puppy food at each meal so
the maximum they would get would be one cup per day...but the way to verify how well you are doing is to weigh pups once a week.
Weight gain should be no more than 1 lb. per week. After the adjustment to solid food, I might go up to 1/2 cup, 3 times a day
(maximum) if weight gains warrant it. By 14 weeks I like to see puppies weighing no more than 16 lbs., which gives you a "little"
latitude on the weekly gains.
* Feed a high quality, highly digestible food which gives a nice firm stool. Usually I do feed puppy food for the first 8-12 weeks (up to
14-18 weeks of age), then switch to adult food. Feed with the weight goals (at the end of this article) in mind and adjust amounts
fed accordingly. Each puppy may utilize food differently - or activity levels may justify more food to maintain weight gains.
* Never "force exercise" a puppy by jogging or riding a bicycle with him. Also do not let him run with adult dogs for an extended
period. He can run and play with puppies as much as he wants, but no "artificial" stimulus, which might cause him not to know he
is tired and should quit!
* After 14 weeks I usually allow for a little more rapid gain--1-1/2 to 2 lbs. per week -- IF they have stayed within the goal range
during the first 14 weeks. I don't ever try to make a puppy "lose" weight--just slow down his rate of gain.
* After the teething stage (5-6 months), you can increase feed for "growth" and "finishing." At that stage I usually also reduce meals
from 3 to 2.
It is worth remembering that diet and exercise cannot "make" good hips, but an overdose of either of these can most certainly ruin
what otherwise might have been reasonably good hips. In addition, it is very important to monitor the pups' health closely;
vaccinations must be timely and checks for parasites frequent, as anything which happens to a very thin puppy can have rapid and
potentially dangerous consequences.
So--pick your stud dog carefully and seek to breed better hips...but also do all in your power, once those puppies are on the
ground, to maximize their potential through your good management.
Maximum Goal Weights
1 week 1 lbs.
2 weeks 2 lbs.
3 weeks 3 lbs.
4 weeks 4 lbs.
5 weeks 5 lbs.
6 weeks 6 lbs.
14 weeks 15 lbs.
20 weeks 24 lbs.
The first thing to recognize about hip dysplasia (after having selected the best dogs you can for breeding) is that it is a
developmental disease. While it is believed there is a definite genetic component (many components, it appears), it is something
that is not present at birth, but which occurs as the puppy grows. Having a "management plan" will help you minimize
environmental influences which could negate any genetic gains your breeding selection might make.
The goal is to feed for "minimum maintenance." In other words, you feed to give the puppy adequate nutrition for development of
his vital systems while keeping his growth as slow as possible. This helps build stronger, denser bones and provides less stress
on joints such as hips and knees during that developing phase. Because gross hip changes occur around the same time as
teething, it is important to keep the puppy on this regimen through teething--to approximately 5 months of age. After the main
teething is done (5-6 months), you can begin to increase the puppy's food intake to allow him to grow into his genetic potential
(however large [but not fat] that may be). Slow growth does not interfere with the dog's eventual size; his genes will determine that,
so long as he has been fed a balanced diet which gives him "enough" minerals and nutrients to grow. What slow growth does do
is keep him from looking the roly-poly puppy that everyone loves to see. He may be smaller, with "less" bone, than puppies his age
who have been fed an abundance of food at an early age. Do not let that deter you; keep your goal in mind--the long term health
and well being of your puppies! He will get where he was going and be stronger for your efforts.
Here is an outline of what I feel are the important steps in rearing puppies for improved hips:
* If you have fewer than 3 puppies in the litter, you will need to begin intervention while the pups are still nursing. The goal is to
keep weight gain/growth to no more than 1.5 oz. per day. Thus you must weigh each puppy daily for at least the first two weeks;
after that you can weigh every-other-day to be sure you are on target. If a pup is gaining too rapidly, each time that puppy begins to
nurse, pull him off and put him on the opposite side of the whelping box--make him work to get to that feeding source. Without
enough competition, puppies may just "latch on" and nurse constantly without any effort. If you have more than 3 puppies, you
should still weigh every day for the first two weeks (at least) to be sure the weight gains are within a reasonable range.
* At six weeks, depending on birth weight, the pups should ideally weigh about 6 lbs., but no more than 7 lbs. At this point, feed
each puppy individually so that you are controlling exactly how much food that puppy gets. The ideal feeding schedule at this age is
4 meals per day, but if you can't manage that, 3 will do. As a rule of thumb I would start with 1/4 cup of puppy food at each meal so
the maximum they would get would be one cup per day...but the way to verify how well you are doing is to weigh pups once a week.
Weight gain should be no more than 1 lb. per week. After the adjustment to solid food, I might go up to 1/2 cup, 3 times a day
(maximum) if weight gains warrant it. By 14 weeks I like to see puppies weighing no more than 16 lbs., which gives you a "little"
latitude on the weekly gains.
* Feed a high quality, highly digestible food which gives a nice firm stool. Usually I do feed puppy food for the first 8-12 weeks (up to
14-18 weeks of age), then switch to adult food. Feed with the weight goals (at the end of this article) in mind and adjust amounts
fed accordingly. Each puppy may utilize food differently - or activity levels may justify more food to maintain weight gains.
* Never "force exercise" a puppy by jogging or riding a bicycle with him. Also do not let him run with adult dogs for an extended
period. He can run and play with puppies as much as he wants, but no "artificial" stimulus, which might cause him not to know he
is tired and should quit!
* After 14 weeks I usually allow for a little more rapid gain--1-1/2 to 2 lbs. per week -- IF they have stayed within the goal range
during the first 14 weeks. I don't ever try to make a puppy "lose" weight--just slow down his rate of gain.
* After the teething stage (5-6 months), you can increase feed for "growth" and "finishing." At that stage I usually also reduce meals
from 3 to 2.
It is worth remembering that diet and exercise cannot "make" good hips, but an overdose of either of these can most certainly ruin
what otherwise might have been reasonably good hips. In addition, it is very important to monitor the pups' health closely;
vaccinations must be timely and checks for parasites frequent, as anything which happens to a very thin puppy can have rapid and
potentially dangerous consequences.
So--pick your stud dog carefully and seek to breed better hips...but also do all in your power, once those puppies are on the
ground, to maximize their potential through your good management.
Maximum Goal Weights
1 week 1 lbs.
2 weeks 2 lbs.
3 weeks 3 lbs.
4 weeks 4 lbs.
5 weeks 5 lbs.
6 weeks 6 lbs.
14 weeks 15 lbs.
20 weeks 24 lbs.
| Milk Replacement Formulas |
| 2 |
Milk Replacer - Shelley Camm
1 c. yogurt
1 can evaporated milk
3 egg yolks
1 squeeze of liquid baby vitamins
6 oz boiled water
Puppy formula - Catherine Cargo
If you can't get any goat's milk (nectar of the Gods),
this is the next best thing:
1 can condensed milk
1 can water
2 egg yolks
1 tablespoon of Karo syrup
I use this at weaning time over kibble.
Puppy formula - Benita
1/2 Esbilac
1/2 Goat's Milk
Used when bitch didn't have much milk.
They thrived on this formula until I could wean
them onto blended goat's milk and kibble.....at about 3 weeks.
Puppy formula - Phyllis Lane
Buy the canned goat's milk in the grocery store.
For newborn & very young puppies:
1/2 Goat's Milk
1/2 Water
You may have diarrhea, if you do not mix it with water.
When starting on solid food, I mix a gruel of goat's
milk, softened kibble & baby (human) oatmeal cereal.
Q: Exactly what type of yogurt should be used for the puppy formula?
A: We use Vanilla flavored from supermarket, we have found that most won't eat plain.
The older dogs that we give Yogurt to stop throwing up bile seem to prefer the flavored
and the #1 favorite is Raspberry. They don't like Strawberry Banana. Mary O'Neal
A: Plain with the highest fat content you can purchase. Shelley Camm
1 c. yogurt
1 can evaporated milk
3 egg yolks
1 squeeze of liquid baby vitamins
6 oz boiled water
Puppy formula - Catherine Cargo
If you can't get any goat's milk (nectar of the Gods),
this is the next best thing:
1 can condensed milk
1 can water
2 egg yolks
1 tablespoon of Karo syrup
I use this at weaning time over kibble.
Puppy formula - Benita
1/2 Esbilac
1/2 Goat's Milk
Used when bitch didn't have much milk.
They thrived on this formula until I could wean
them onto blended goat's milk and kibble.....at about 3 weeks.
Puppy formula - Phyllis Lane
Buy the canned goat's milk in the grocery store.
For newborn & very young puppies:
1/2 Goat's Milk
1/2 Water
You may have diarrhea, if you do not mix it with water.
When starting on solid food, I mix a gruel of goat's
milk, softened kibble & baby (human) oatmeal cereal.
Q: Exactly what type of yogurt should be used for the puppy formula?
A: We use Vanilla flavored from supermarket, we have found that most won't eat plain.
The older dogs that we give Yogurt to stop throwing up bile seem to prefer the flavored
and the #1 favorite is Raspberry. They don't like Strawberry Banana. Mary O'Neal
A: Plain with the highest fat content you can purchase. Shelley Camm
| Perks for Pups |
| 3 |
Perks for Pups - Breeder Options for Puppy Buyers
A few years ago, in an attempt to increase membership in the Icelandic Sheepdog Association of America, ISAA, several
breeders decided to give their new puppy owners incentives or packages when they bought puppies. In addition to being good
PR for our breed club, these packages also increased the number of dogs recorded with the American Kennel Club Foundation
Stock Service, AKC FSS, program.
Getting new owners (puppy buyers) to record new puppies with the AKC FSS was problematic. Most new puppy owners said that
they wanted to record their puppies, were going to record their new pups but never got around to actually doing it. It turned out
that they were too busy with housebreaking, making vet trips, enrolling and attending obedience classes, shopping for puppy
food and dog toys, enjoying their pups, etc.
In a similar way, they never got around to joining the ISAA. Months later when the puppy-dust had settled and the family had
integrated the new Icelandic into their lives, the recording and joining desire had been lost. We had missed opportunities to gain
new ISAA members and newly recorded AKC FSS Icelandics.
We decided to help beleaguered new puppy owners by taking some of the burden off their backs. We had no formal plan; we just
wanted to make it easier to get some of the new puppy tasks done so the puppy guardians could spend quality time with their
new charges.
Here are some of the things we’ve given to the new puppy moms and dads and some explanations on the “why”, on the reasons
for doing so. There is no directive, no list, no must-do-jobs. It is and should be up to the breeder to decide what is reasonable to
offer buyers.
1, Names. Most of us select the official name for the new puppy. We try to use Icelandic names or at the least, “Icelandic-
Sounding” names. We feel that doing so encourages new guardians to explore things Icelandic as well as the roots, the origins,
of their charges. Fortunately there are many excellent lists of good Icelandic names out there. Knox Rhine and Jaime Hansen
have both helped breeders find suitable names. Maggý Pease, an Icelandic woman married to an American and living in Ohio,
with two Icelandics of her own has a wonderful website with pronunciations of many great dog names on that website: - www.
spurdann.com
Although none of us are eligible for AKC official kennel names, most of us now use an “identifier” in front of the official name we
give our puppies. (To qualify for an official AKC kennel name stringent requirements must be met. Currently we are technically
not in the AKC but rather in the FSS. None of us have bred enough dogs, produced enough champions or bred enough dogs with
obedience titles to qualify for an official kennel name.) The purpose of this identifier is to tell owners and breeders where the dog
originated. The data base we use, BreedMate, organizes dogs alphabetically. Using an identifier puts all the dogs bred by the
same person in the same area in the data base. It is easier to locate and to track dogs when related dogs, dogs from the same
litter, are all in one place. Catching the inevitable mistakes in birthdays; sire and dam names; and AKC FSS, UKC, foreign
registrations and ISAA registration numbers is easier when related dogs are in the same place. Virtually every Icelandic breeder
in the ISAA now places their identifier in front of the official names they give their pups.
Some breeders have a plan on how to name their pups. Some use the same first letter for all of their pups from the same litter.
They believe that helps them to remember details about the pups’ backgrounds like parents, birthdays, etc. In some countries
that is mandatory. Most of us are less structured than that. Some like to try for “themes” naming their pups after characters in
Norse mythology, perhaps. Some have used names from Icelandic Sagas. Others have revived names from dogs in Iceland’s
past. Names of mountains, or rivers, or glaciers have been used. There are so many great Icelandic names that the list is almost
endless. We have encouraged folks to use different names, names that have either not been used before or have been used
rarely. That makes it easier to track and trace ancestry.
A few new owners have not been pleased with their pup’s official name – at first. Later they often realize the significance and
become quite fond of the Icelandic name. Others choose a “call name” which is for every day use. We encourage them to do that
and ask them to record that call name with the Tracking chair in order to minimize confusion later. Taking the time to explain the
difference between the official name and the call name is almost always sufficient to quiet the concerns of puppy guardians. It’s
simply good PR.
2. Registration with the ISAA. Registration of puppies with the ISAA is free and a perk of member-breeders. Actually anyone who
breeds Icelandics, whether registered with an official kennel club like the AKC or the UKC or not is entitled and encouraged to
register their imported dogs and their pups with the ISAA. It is extremely valuable to all of us to have those records for our use.
The ways that we can use that information are almost limitless. That information is now and always should be available to
anyone at any time. That information can be valuable in the selection of the best possible mate for your dog. It can be useful for
choosing a puppy in contemplation for breeding or showing in Conformation or Companion Events or for just getting the best
possible puppy.
Information on our Icelandics and their ancestors is stored in our ISAA data base, on our annual registration lists and on our
genetic health list. It is available upon request from the Tracking chair. It may be necessary to receive the approval of the
president and/or the National Board of Directors of the ISAA. Information released may be limited to dogs owned by the person
requesting it. The BreedMate data base belongs to the ISAA and will not be released in its entirety to anyone.
Dogs and puppies registered with the ISAA who have their statistics stored in BreedMate can have pedigrees from the ISAA.
Those pedigrees are free for ISAA members for their dogs. Non-members may be charged a reasonable fee.
ISAA members who are considering a mate for their dogs can ask the Tracking chair for “combined pedigrees” in order to
compare the suitability of various possible partners. In addition to those combined pedigrees, members can ask for Inbreeding
Coefficient (IC) scores for possible mates with their dog. There are pros and cons for all crosses. There are plusses and
minuses for high IC scores and low IC scores. When making breeding decisions, members can rely on their reading, on net-
searches and the documentation accumulated by the club. Generally speaking, advice is not given unless asked for.
Member-breeders and breeders who use the ISAA website to advertise their litters are actively encouraged to share relevant
information with the Tracking chair. That information is crucial to expanding our genetic knowledge about our Icelandics, finding
and maintaining contact with new owners, helping to find mates for all our Icelandics, for out-reach in case of a genetic health
problem, to find foster homes for rescue dogs, etc.
It is extremely important for us to know the following for all of our pups from every litter: the birth order of the pups in the litter if
possible, official name for the pup; AKC and/or UKC registration number; colors; name, address, phone number, email address
for the new owner; call name; etc. In addition it would be nice to know some more details about the pup as it grows to expand our
knowledge on all North American Icies. That information might be very valuable for our club to have at some point in the future.
Member-breeders may ask for ISAA pedigrees for their puppies to give to their puppy buyers. Our ISAA BreedMate pedigrees may
be useful. Those pedigrees may be sent to either the member-breeder of the new owner from the Tracking chair at the option of
the Tracking chair.
3. Registration with the AKC FSS. Some breeders are including the cost of registering their pups with the AKC FSS as part of the
“package” they provide to their buyers.
Initially it is very important that all breeders immediately register the entire litter with the AKC FSS within a day of their birth. The
form for registering the whole litter is on the ISAA website: - http://www.akc.org/pdfs/AL9999.pdf (The litter registration form can
also be found on the AKC website. Be sure at this point to use the FSS litter registration form and not the AKC form.) It takes
several weeks for the AKC FSS to process the form that is why it is important to send it off to them immediately. (For an increased
fee, more prompt attention is possible.)
When you hear back from the AKC FSS about the litter registration, there will be forms for registering the puppies individually.
Some breeders give those to the new puppy guardians in the hope they will follow through and register the pups. Some new
puppy buyers complete the registration process. Many are too busy to finish the process.
We highly recommend that breeders fill in the forms completely for the new owners. Fill in the “identifier” name first (see the
second paragraph in number 1 above) and the official name you have chosen for the pup following that. Some breeders let the
puppy buyers help with choosing the official name. That’s good PR. One way to do that might be to make a list of possible
names with their meanings for the new owners to choose from. This might help new buyers to focus on Icelandic names.
Leaving those forms blank means the puppy buyers can choose their own name for the pup. We believe that the breeder of the
pups should get the credit for producing the litter. The official names will go into our permanent records as well as the
permanent records of the AKC and/or the UKC.
The individual registrations can go “as is” to the buyer. The rest of the AKC FSS registration process could be up to the buyer.
However, many breeders also address the envelope, stamp it, and include a check or their own credit card information to ensure
the process will be completed. Buyers only need to “sign on the dotted line”, put the material in the envelope and mail it to
complete the AKC FSS registration process. That is probably the best way to ensure that your pups get registered.
Breeders of AKC dogs can sell their puppies with either a full registration or a limited registration. A full registration allows the
dog to participate in all AKC Events, Conformation as well as Companion or Performance Events. Fully registered dogs may be
bred and their puppies sold as AKC registered dogs.
Dogs with a limited may participate in all Companion or Performance Events. They may not participate in Conformation Shows.
They are not to be bred; their offspring cannot be registered with the AKC.
4. Microchips. Microchips or tattoos are a way of permanently identifying your dog. When a dog is x-rayed for hip dysplasia,
patellar luxation, elbow problems, the Canine Eye Registration Foundation (CERF), etc., a permanent identification must be
provided to the examiner for their records. Most breeders today choose to have a microchip implanted. The microchip can be
read with a microchip reader. When the program was started, readers were given to virtually all Veterinarians and Humane
Societies. So, in addition to providing an identifier for health tests, the chips also help find the owner of the dog. The chip
contains a number which national data bases store along with the owners’ names and contact information.
From time to time, our dogs are lost or “picked up” and assumed to be lost. Many breeders pay for implantation before the pups
leave home. That ensures that there will be a record of them from their first foray into the great big world. Some breeders record
the microchip in their own names to ensure that the dogs get back to them just in case the buyer gives up the dog willingly
without informing the breeder.
5. ISAA Membership. To encourage participation in the ISAA, many breeders give a one year membership to first time puppy
buyers. Memberships are for a calendar year and run from January to December. There is no need to give a membership if the
new puppy buyer is already a member. Not surprisingly, many people who buy one Icelandic later come back and buy another
one. Like the proverbial potato chip, Icelandics are hard to resist. The Quarterly Newsletter, yet another perk of membership,
contains much valuable information and stimulates the desire to become more involved in our small but growing community.
The AKC has strongly encouraged an active membership base.
Once people have become members, their interest may branch out and they may decide to become active in some of the various
activities associated with the ISAA like the Rescue Group, the Standards Committee, the Tracking Committee, the Public
Relations group, etc.
A gift membership in the ISAA benefits our breed club as well as the new puppy owner. Many people given a one year
membership in the ISAA renew their memberships when they expire.
Member-breeders may ask the Tracking chair to send ISAA pedigrees to the new puppy owners. (See the last paragraph in #2
Registration with the ISAA above. New owner information must be on file with the Tracking chair.)
6. CERF Tests. Some members have their puppies’ eyes checked before they leave home. There are currently only two genetic
eye problems that Icelandics might have: distichiasis and juvenile cataracts. Early screening for these two problems can tell a
potential breeder or puppy owner if there might ultimately be a more serious problem. Early screening will prevent these two
genetic diseases from becoming common in our population. ISAA genetic health records, annual registration lists and
BreedMate records will eventually be useful in identifying dogs positive for those two eye diseases, carriers for those eye
conditions, and other genetic issues and problems.
Although the precise mode of inheritance for distichia and juvenile cataracts remains somewhat unclear, it seems they might
both be the result of recessive genes. Thus parents may not show the trait and yet still pass it on to t\some of their offspring. All of
the pups in a litter may not be affected.
7. Collars, Name-Tags, Toys, Photos, etc. Many breeders like to send or give their puppies’ first possessions to the new owner.
Those items may include some or all of the above or even more. It is, again, good PR and lets the new owner know that we as
breeders care about the pups we brought into this world.
As an aside, keeping track of health issues as they might appear in the pups we produce is important to us. It’s important to us
because we will know right away when something happens. We can then track and trace to see if this is an isolated health
incident or if it’s the precursor of something more important for the health of our breed. It is also important to the new owners
because it lets them know that we, as a community, care about what happens after the pup leaves its birth home. Our love and
care and concern does not stop when the puppy leaves us.
A call or an email several times during the first year of the pups’ lives maintains the link with the new buyer.
It’s really nice to see photos of our babies. Using that as an excuse to “talk” with the buyer could lead to a closer relationship
between the buyer and seller or between the buyer and the ISAA.
8. Other Health Issues. As our knowledge of Icelandics grows, we discover things that ought to be shared with “newbies” as well
as the old timers. Sometimes we share that new information with people using the chat room/bulletin board. The quarterly
newsletter is another way to disseminate new information.
It can be extremely important that we get the word out to those who need the information. If we have provided the new puppy
owner with an ISAA membership, then they are free to join our ISAA Members Only Chat Room where they may be able to have
some of their questions answered and their concerns addressed by those who have “been there and done that” already.
For example: It is now believed that puppies should not be fed an enriched “puppy” diet for the entire first year of life. That
apparently stimulates growth that is too fast. There have been articles suggesting that slower growth is better for long term hip
health.
There are also articles of importance that appear from time to time in the public press that ought to be brought to the attention of
our members. The quarterly newsletter is a great place to do that. That is a members-only forum as is the new members-only
chat room.
What are some of the ways members have dealt with the barking issue? This is definitely something for the ISAA members only
room and not for the regular chat room where prospective buyers are seeking information.
Sometimes we scare folks off in the general information chat room by giving too much information overwhelming them. Enrolling
new puppy owners in a members only chat room fits their current needs with their current situation.
Breeders should send the president or the BOD a list of new puppy owners if they have been given ISAA memberships, so that
they can be invited to join the members only chat room for more relevant information.
The continued growth and importance of those two venues for disseminating information is good for the ISAA, good for the
members.
A few years ago, in an attempt to increase membership in the Icelandic Sheepdog Association of America, ISAA, several
breeders decided to give their new puppy owners incentives or packages when they bought puppies. In addition to being good
PR for our breed club, these packages also increased the number of dogs recorded with the American Kennel Club Foundation
Stock Service, AKC FSS, program.
Getting new owners (puppy buyers) to record new puppies with the AKC FSS was problematic. Most new puppy owners said that
they wanted to record their puppies, were going to record their new pups but never got around to actually doing it. It turned out
that they were too busy with housebreaking, making vet trips, enrolling and attending obedience classes, shopping for puppy
food and dog toys, enjoying their pups, etc.
In a similar way, they never got around to joining the ISAA. Months later when the puppy-dust had settled and the family had
integrated the new Icelandic into their lives, the recording and joining desire had been lost. We had missed opportunities to gain
new ISAA members and newly recorded AKC FSS Icelandics.
We decided to help beleaguered new puppy owners by taking some of the burden off their backs. We had no formal plan; we just
wanted to make it easier to get some of the new puppy tasks done so the puppy guardians could spend quality time with their
new charges.
Here are some of the things we’ve given to the new puppy moms and dads and some explanations on the “why”, on the reasons
for doing so. There is no directive, no list, no must-do-jobs. It is and should be up to the breeder to decide what is reasonable to
offer buyers.
1, Names. Most of us select the official name for the new puppy. We try to use Icelandic names or at the least, “Icelandic-
Sounding” names. We feel that doing so encourages new guardians to explore things Icelandic as well as the roots, the origins,
of their charges. Fortunately there are many excellent lists of good Icelandic names out there. Knox Rhine and Jaime Hansen
have both helped breeders find suitable names. Maggý Pease, an Icelandic woman married to an American and living in Ohio,
with two Icelandics of her own has a wonderful website with pronunciations of many great dog names on that website: - www.
spurdann.com
Although none of us are eligible for AKC official kennel names, most of us now use an “identifier” in front of the official name we
give our puppies. (To qualify for an official AKC kennel name stringent requirements must be met. Currently we are technically
not in the AKC but rather in the FSS. None of us have bred enough dogs, produced enough champions or bred enough dogs with
obedience titles to qualify for an official kennel name.) The purpose of this identifier is to tell owners and breeders where the dog
originated. The data base we use, BreedMate, organizes dogs alphabetically. Using an identifier puts all the dogs bred by the
same person in the same area in the data base. It is easier to locate and to track dogs when related dogs, dogs from the same
litter, are all in one place. Catching the inevitable mistakes in birthdays; sire and dam names; and AKC FSS, UKC, foreign
registrations and ISAA registration numbers is easier when related dogs are in the same place. Virtually every Icelandic breeder
in the ISAA now places their identifier in front of the official names they give their pups.
Some breeders have a plan on how to name their pups. Some use the same first letter for all of their pups from the same litter.
They believe that helps them to remember details about the pups’ backgrounds like parents, birthdays, etc. In some countries
that is mandatory. Most of us are less structured than that. Some like to try for “themes” naming their pups after characters in
Norse mythology, perhaps. Some have used names from Icelandic Sagas. Others have revived names from dogs in Iceland’s
past. Names of mountains, or rivers, or glaciers have been used. There are so many great Icelandic names that the list is almost
endless. We have encouraged folks to use different names, names that have either not been used before or have been used
rarely. That makes it easier to track and trace ancestry.
A few new owners have not been pleased with their pup’s official name – at first. Later they often realize the significance and
become quite fond of the Icelandic name. Others choose a “call name” which is for every day use. We encourage them to do that
and ask them to record that call name with the Tracking chair in order to minimize confusion later. Taking the time to explain the
difference between the official name and the call name is almost always sufficient to quiet the concerns of puppy guardians. It’s
simply good PR.
2. Registration with the ISAA. Registration of puppies with the ISAA is free and a perk of member-breeders. Actually anyone who
breeds Icelandics, whether registered with an official kennel club like the AKC or the UKC or not is entitled and encouraged to
register their imported dogs and their pups with the ISAA. It is extremely valuable to all of us to have those records for our use.
The ways that we can use that information are almost limitless. That information is now and always should be available to
anyone at any time. That information can be valuable in the selection of the best possible mate for your dog. It can be useful for
choosing a puppy in contemplation for breeding or showing in Conformation or Companion Events or for just getting the best
possible puppy.
Information on our Icelandics and their ancestors is stored in our ISAA data base, on our annual registration lists and on our
genetic health list. It is available upon request from the Tracking chair. It may be necessary to receive the approval of the
president and/or the National Board of Directors of the ISAA. Information released may be limited to dogs owned by the person
requesting it. The BreedMate data base belongs to the ISAA and will not be released in its entirety to anyone.
Dogs and puppies registered with the ISAA who have their statistics stored in BreedMate can have pedigrees from the ISAA.
Those pedigrees are free for ISAA members for their dogs. Non-members may be charged a reasonable fee.
ISAA members who are considering a mate for their dogs can ask the Tracking chair for “combined pedigrees” in order to
compare the suitability of various possible partners. In addition to those combined pedigrees, members can ask for Inbreeding
Coefficient (IC) scores for possible mates with their dog. There are pros and cons for all crosses. There are plusses and
minuses for high IC scores and low IC scores. When making breeding decisions, members can rely on their reading, on net-
searches and the documentation accumulated by the club. Generally speaking, advice is not given unless asked for.
Member-breeders and breeders who use the ISAA website to advertise their litters are actively encouraged to share relevant
information with the Tracking chair. That information is crucial to expanding our genetic knowledge about our Icelandics, finding
and maintaining contact with new owners, helping to find mates for all our Icelandics, for out-reach in case of a genetic health
problem, to find foster homes for rescue dogs, etc.
It is extremely important for us to know the following for all of our pups from every litter: the birth order of the pups in the litter if
possible, official name for the pup; AKC and/or UKC registration number; colors; name, address, phone number, email address
for the new owner; call name; etc. In addition it would be nice to know some more details about the pup as it grows to expand our
knowledge on all North American Icies. That information might be very valuable for our club to have at some point in the future.
Member-breeders may ask for ISAA pedigrees for their puppies to give to their puppy buyers. Our ISAA BreedMate pedigrees may
be useful. Those pedigrees may be sent to either the member-breeder of the new owner from the Tracking chair at the option of
the Tracking chair.
3. Registration with the AKC FSS. Some breeders are including the cost of registering their pups with the AKC FSS as part of the
“package” they provide to their buyers.
Initially it is very important that all breeders immediately register the entire litter with the AKC FSS within a day of their birth. The
form for registering the whole litter is on the ISAA website: - http://www.akc.org/pdfs/AL9999.pdf (The litter registration form can
also be found on the AKC website. Be sure at this point to use the FSS litter registration form and not the AKC form.) It takes
several weeks for the AKC FSS to process the form that is why it is important to send it off to them immediately. (For an increased
fee, more prompt attention is possible.)
When you hear back from the AKC FSS about the litter registration, there will be forms for registering the puppies individually.
Some breeders give those to the new puppy guardians in the hope they will follow through and register the pups. Some new
puppy buyers complete the registration process. Many are too busy to finish the process.
We highly recommend that breeders fill in the forms completely for the new owners. Fill in the “identifier” name first (see the
second paragraph in number 1 above) and the official name you have chosen for the pup following that. Some breeders let the
puppy buyers help with choosing the official name. That’s good PR. One way to do that might be to make a list of possible
names with their meanings for the new owners to choose from. This might help new buyers to focus on Icelandic names.
Leaving those forms blank means the puppy buyers can choose their own name for the pup. We believe that the breeder of the
pups should get the credit for producing the litter. The official names will go into our permanent records as well as the
permanent records of the AKC and/or the UKC.
The individual registrations can go “as is” to the buyer. The rest of the AKC FSS registration process could be up to the buyer.
However, many breeders also address the envelope, stamp it, and include a check or their own credit card information to ensure
the process will be completed. Buyers only need to “sign on the dotted line”, put the material in the envelope and mail it to
complete the AKC FSS registration process. That is probably the best way to ensure that your pups get registered.
Breeders of AKC dogs can sell their puppies with either a full registration or a limited registration. A full registration allows the
dog to participate in all AKC Events, Conformation as well as Companion or Performance Events. Fully registered dogs may be
bred and their puppies sold as AKC registered dogs.
Dogs with a limited may participate in all Companion or Performance Events. They may not participate in Conformation Shows.
They are not to be bred; their offspring cannot be registered with the AKC.
4. Microchips. Microchips or tattoos are a way of permanently identifying your dog. When a dog is x-rayed for hip dysplasia,
patellar luxation, elbow problems, the Canine Eye Registration Foundation (CERF), etc., a permanent identification must be
provided to the examiner for their records. Most breeders today choose to have a microchip implanted. The microchip can be
read with a microchip reader. When the program was started, readers were given to virtually all Veterinarians and Humane
Societies. So, in addition to providing an identifier for health tests, the chips also help find the owner of the dog. The chip
contains a number which national data bases store along with the owners’ names and contact information.
From time to time, our dogs are lost or “picked up” and assumed to be lost. Many breeders pay for implantation before the pups
leave home. That ensures that there will be a record of them from their first foray into the great big world. Some breeders record
the microchip in their own names to ensure that the dogs get back to them just in case the buyer gives up the dog willingly
without informing the breeder.
5. ISAA Membership. To encourage participation in the ISAA, many breeders give a one year membership to first time puppy
buyers. Memberships are for a calendar year and run from January to December. There is no need to give a membership if the
new puppy buyer is already a member. Not surprisingly, many people who buy one Icelandic later come back and buy another
one. Like the proverbial potato chip, Icelandics are hard to resist. The Quarterly Newsletter, yet another perk of membership,
contains much valuable information and stimulates the desire to become more involved in our small but growing community.
The AKC has strongly encouraged an active membership base.
Once people have become members, their interest may branch out and they may decide to become active in some of the various
activities associated with the ISAA like the Rescue Group, the Standards Committee, the Tracking Committee, the Public
Relations group, etc.
A gift membership in the ISAA benefits our breed club as well as the new puppy owner. Many people given a one year
membership in the ISAA renew their memberships when they expire.
Member-breeders may ask the Tracking chair to send ISAA pedigrees to the new puppy owners. (See the last paragraph in #2
Registration with the ISAA above. New owner information must be on file with the Tracking chair.)
6. CERF Tests. Some members have their puppies’ eyes checked before they leave home. There are currently only two genetic
eye problems that Icelandics might have: distichiasis and juvenile cataracts. Early screening for these two problems can tell a
potential breeder or puppy owner if there might ultimately be a more serious problem. Early screening will prevent these two
genetic diseases from becoming common in our population. ISAA genetic health records, annual registration lists and
BreedMate records will eventually be useful in identifying dogs positive for those two eye diseases, carriers for those eye
conditions, and other genetic issues and problems.
Although the precise mode of inheritance for distichia and juvenile cataracts remains somewhat unclear, it seems they might
both be the result of recessive genes. Thus parents may not show the trait and yet still pass it on to t\some of their offspring. All of
the pups in a litter may not be affected.
7. Collars, Name-Tags, Toys, Photos, etc. Many breeders like to send or give their puppies’ first possessions to the new owner.
Those items may include some or all of the above or even more. It is, again, good PR and lets the new owner know that we as
breeders care about the pups we brought into this world.
As an aside, keeping track of health issues as they might appear in the pups we produce is important to us. It’s important to us
because we will know right away when something happens. We can then track and trace to see if this is an isolated health
incident or if it’s the precursor of something more important for the health of our breed. It is also important to the new owners
because it lets them know that we, as a community, care about what happens after the pup leaves its birth home. Our love and
care and concern does not stop when the puppy leaves us.
A call or an email several times during the first year of the pups’ lives maintains the link with the new buyer.
It’s really nice to see photos of our babies. Using that as an excuse to “talk” with the buyer could lead to a closer relationship
between the buyer and seller or between the buyer and the ISAA.
8. Other Health Issues. As our knowledge of Icelandics grows, we discover things that ought to be shared with “newbies” as well
as the old timers. Sometimes we share that new information with people using the chat room/bulletin board. The quarterly
newsletter is another way to disseminate new information.
It can be extremely important that we get the word out to those who need the information. If we have provided the new puppy
owner with an ISAA membership, then they are free to join our ISAA Members Only Chat Room where they may be able to have
some of their questions answered and their concerns addressed by those who have “been there and done that” already.
For example: It is now believed that puppies should not be fed an enriched “puppy” diet for the entire first year of life. That
apparently stimulates growth that is too fast. There have been articles suggesting that slower growth is better for long term hip
health.
There are also articles of importance that appear from time to time in the public press that ought to be brought to the attention of
our members. The quarterly newsletter is a great place to do that. That is a members-only forum as is the new members-only
chat room.
What are some of the ways members have dealt with the barking issue? This is definitely something for the ISAA members only
room and not for the regular chat room where prospective buyers are seeking information.
Sometimes we scare folks off in the general information chat room by giving too much information overwhelming them. Enrolling
new puppy owners in a members only chat room fits their current needs with their current situation.
Breeders should send the president or the BOD a list of new puppy owners if they have been given ISAA memberships, so that
they can be invited to join the members only chat room for more relevant information.
The continued growth and importance of those two venues for disseminating information is good for the ISAA, good for the
members.
| 4 |
| Puppy Warranty |
Puppy Warranty
There appears to be little difference in dictionary meaning between the terms guarantee and warranty. In fact they are
sometimes used to define one another which can be confusing. So this is how we’ll define these two terms for this discussion.
A warranty means that the goods or property are as represented. The facts are as stated.
A guarantee seems to imply that the quality, quantity, condition of the goods to the purchaser will always be the same. A guaranty
implies that something will happen, promises that it will happen.
The problem is that one cannot guarantee that one will be alive tomorrow. When you buy a new car it comes with a "warranty"
that it is in good condition at the time of purchase and not a "guarantee” that the car is perfect and will always be so.
There are many written sales agreements around. However they all are only as good as the person standing behind them.
A warranty applied to a puppy would say that the puppy is in good health at the time of purchase. It also says that the parents of
that puppy were also in good health and had the tests done to prove that they were. A written statement from the breeder’s vet
should attest to the pup’s condition. Documents for health testing agencies should be kept to show that the parents were
healthy. The puppy will have been examined by the vet before leaving the breeder’s home. The pup will have no communicable
diseases when it leaves. It will have no obvious deformities or abnormalities as determined by the vet and by the breeder unless
specifically mentioned. For example, the dog may not have dew claws or it may not have prick ears and still be a good example
of the breed and in good health.
A warranty for a pup would say that the parents, sire and dam, of the puppy are also in good health and have had the necessary
health checks done to assure the breeder and the new owner that the pup is most likely to also be a genetically healthy animal.
Genetics is not an exact science in plants, animals or humans. Otherwise apparently healthy parents may produce offspring
with a genetic issue or problem. That problem may not become apparent until the animal is older. The genetic issue or problem
may be growth related.
The breeder and buyer may agree before the purchase is complete, before the final payment is made, that if an unexpected
genetic problem appears, that the puppy will be returned to the seller for a full or partial refund or a replacement puppy from a
future litter.
People who purchase a puppy as a pet expect the same kind of treatment as people who buy a show dog for Conformation,
Performance or Herding Events. However, the genetics of the puppy destined for a pet home may be quite different from the
genetics of a puppy for a “show” home and the discussion between the breeder and buyer should reflect that before the deal is
complete. Generally speaking, pet puppies may cost less as a result of somewhat lower expectations. The expectations must
be clearly stated beforehand. Pet puppies and puppies destined for Performance or Herding Events may be sold on a limited
registration contract or a spay/neuter contract.
For example, someone who purchases a puppy for show and possible breeding probably expects the puppy’s eyes and hips to
be about as healthy genetically as the parents. That is reasonable. If the puppy fails to achieve passing scores on eyes and
hips, then the agreed on result must happen. If the puppy fails its hip test, it might be returned for a full refund. Or the puppy
might stay with the owner and a partial refund to equal the price of a pet quality puppy might take place. There should be a
separate spay/neuter agreement and proof of the procedure before the partial refund occurs. Or the breeder might agree to
replace the puppy with a puppy from a subsequent litter. The puppy would have to be returned to the breeder for re-homing. As
long as the breeder and buyer agree to the terms before the puppy leaves its birth home, both parties should be satisfied. The
agreement should be in writing to avoid misunderstandings and problems later.
Some health issues are clearly the direct result of genes. Others are the result of environment. Many are a combination of
heredity and environment.
The seller and buyer must discuss the importance of heredity and environment on the future health of a pup for those issues
where both are involved. For hip health, for example, approximately half of the future health of a puppy’s hips is genetically
based, inherited. The exercise and diet a puppy receives during the first few weeks and months of the puppy’s life are of about
equal importance. (Please see “Feeding for Health, Puppies”.) The buyer has a responsibility for the continued good health of a
puppy after it leaves its birth home.
You may decide to use a written warranty. If the dog has a major health problem in the first 24 months, the sales price may be
completely or partially refunded. It goes without saying that puppy buyers should be treated as you would like to be treated in
their place.
You should not leave yourself open to being responsible for surgery or other veterinary costs that are above and beyond the
sales price of a puppy. There must be an age limit in months, after which you have no responsibility. That can depend on the
“goal” of the purchaser.
Sample Warranty A
This puppy is being sold as a pet quality puppy. Its parents have had the required health tests done according to ISAA rules. The
buyer has been made aware of those test results. This puppy is not intended for the Conformation Show ring and will not be
“breedable”. If it has puppies, the puppies may not be registered. This puppy may be entitled to enter Performance or Herding
Events. Before the registration papers are released to the purchaser, the buyer must complete paying for the puppy and may be
required to show proof of spaying or neutering.
Because the parents have had the health tests, the puppy should be OK genetically.
The seller does not breed or sell puppies with inherited genetic problems or issues on purpose. However, it is possible
because we are dealing with a living organism that a genetic problem may surface in spite of all the necessary parental tests
and precautions. Because this is not a breedable puppy, and because the expectations of the purchaser are somewhat lower
than the expectations of the purchaser of a show puppy, the standard for returning the puppy to the breeder should be lower.
If the buyer wishes to return the puppy, that should be done within 6 months of the purchase. It is easier to re-home a puppy
while still young than it is to find a suitable home for an adult dog.
Sample Warranty B
This puppy is being sold as a pet quality puppy or as a Performance or Herding show quality puppy. Its parents have had the
required health tests done according to ISAA rules. The buyer has been made aware of those test results. This puppy is not
intended for the Conformation Show ring but may still be “breedable”. If it has puppies, the puppies can be registered. This
puppy may be entitled to enter Performance or Herding Events. Before the registration papers are released to the purchaser, the
buyer must complete paying for the puppy
Because the parents have had the health tests, the puppy should be OK genetically.
The seller does not breed or sell puppies with inherited genetic problems or issues on purpose. However, it is possible
because we are dealing with a living organism that a genetic problem may surface in spite of all the necessary parental tests
and precautions. If the buyer’s goal is breeding as well as showing, the buyer should have the eyes and hips tested before
breeding. The CERF eye test may be done at any age and should be repeated annually. The PennHIP hip dysplasia test may be
done at 16 weeks of age and the results known soon after. The testing should be done before 6 months of age. If the puppy fails
to pass either or both of those tests, the puppy may be returned to the seller for a full or partial refund or as an exchange. If the
buyer wishes to return the puppy, the puppy returned as soon after the test results are known as possible. It is easier to re-home
a puppy while still young than it is to find a suitable home for an adult dog.
Sample Warranty C
This puppy is being sold as a Conformation Show and/or Performance or Herding show and/or breeding puppy. Its parents have
had the required health tests done according to ISAA rules. The buyer has been made aware of those test results. This puppy is
eligible for the Conformation Show ring and is “breedable” in the opinion of the breeder. If it has puppies, the puppies can be
registered. This puppy is also entitled to enter Performance or Herding Events. Before the registration papers are released to
the purchaser, the buyer must complete paying for the puppy
Because the parents have had the health tests, the puppy should be OK genetically.
The seller does not breed or sell puppies with inherited genetic problems or issues on purpose. However, it is possible
because we are dealing with a living organism that a genetic problem may surface in spite of all the necessary parental tests
and precautions. If the buyer’s goal is breeding as well as showing, the buyer should have the eyes and hips tested before
breeding. The CERF eye test may be done at any age and should be repeated annually. The PennHIP hip dysplasia test may be
done at 16 weeks of age and the results known soon after. The testing should be done before 6 months of age. If the puppy fails
to pass either or both of those tests, the puppy may be returned to the seller for a full or partial refund or as an exchange. If the
buyer wishes to return the puppy, the puppy returned as soon after the test results are known as possible. It is easier to re-home
a puppy while still young than it is to find a suitable home for an adult dog..
There appears to be little difference in dictionary meaning between the terms guarantee and warranty. In fact they are
sometimes used to define one another which can be confusing. So this is how we’ll define these two terms for this discussion.
A warranty means that the goods or property are as represented. The facts are as stated.
A guarantee seems to imply that the quality, quantity, condition of the goods to the purchaser will always be the same. A guaranty
implies that something will happen, promises that it will happen.
The problem is that one cannot guarantee that one will be alive tomorrow. When you buy a new car it comes with a "warranty"
that it is in good condition at the time of purchase and not a "guarantee” that the car is perfect and will always be so.
There are many written sales agreements around. However they all are only as good as the person standing behind them.
A warranty applied to a puppy would say that the puppy is in good health at the time of purchase. It also says that the parents of
that puppy were also in good health and had the tests done to prove that they were. A written statement from the breeder’s vet
should attest to the pup’s condition. Documents for health testing agencies should be kept to show that the parents were
healthy. The puppy will have been examined by the vet before leaving the breeder’s home. The pup will have no communicable
diseases when it leaves. It will have no obvious deformities or abnormalities as determined by the vet and by the breeder unless
specifically mentioned. For example, the dog may not have dew claws or it may not have prick ears and still be a good example
of the breed and in good health.
A warranty for a pup would say that the parents, sire and dam, of the puppy are also in good health and have had the necessary
health checks done to assure the breeder and the new owner that the pup is most likely to also be a genetically healthy animal.
Genetics is not an exact science in plants, animals or humans. Otherwise apparently healthy parents may produce offspring
with a genetic issue or problem. That problem may not become apparent until the animal is older. The genetic issue or problem
may be growth related.
The breeder and buyer may agree before the purchase is complete, before the final payment is made, that if an unexpected
genetic problem appears, that the puppy will be returned to the seller for a full or partial refund or a replacement puppy from a
future litter.
People who purchase a puppy as a pet expect the same kind of treatment as people who buy a show dog for Conformation,
Performance or Herding Events. However, the genetics of the puppy destined for a pet home may be quite different from the
genetics of a puppy for a “show” home and the discussion between the breeder and buyer should reflect that before the deal is
complete. Generally speaking, pet puppies may cost less as a result of somewhat lower expectations. The expectations must
be clearly stated beforehand. Pet puppies and puppies destined for Performance or Herding Events may be sold on a limited
registration contract or a spay/neuter contract.
For example, someone who purchases a puppy for show and possible breeding probably expects the puppy’s eyes and hips to
be about as healthy genetically as the parents. That is reasonable. If the puppy fails to achieve passing scores on eyes and
hips, then the agreed on result must happen. If the puppy fails its hip test, it might be returned for a full refund. Or the puppy
might stay with the owner and a partial refund to equal the price of a pet quality puppy might take place. There should be a
separate spay/neuter agreement and proof of the procedure before the partial refund occurs. Or the breeder might agree to
replace the puppy with a puppy from a subsequent litter. The puppy would have to be returned to the breeder for re-homing. As
long as the breeder and buyer agree to the terms before the puppy leaves its birth home, both parties should be satisfied. The
agreement should be in writing to avoid misunderstandings and problems later.
Some health issues are clearly the direct result of genes. Others are the result of environment. Many are a combination of
heredity and environment.
The seller and buyer must discuss the importance of heredity and environment on the future health of a pup for those issues
where both are involved. For hip health, for example, approximately half of the future health of a puppy’s hips is genetically
based, inherited. The exercise and diet a puppy receives during the first few weeks and months of the puppy’s life are of about
equal importance. (Please see “Feeding for Health, Puppies”.) The buyer has a responsibility for the continued good health of a
puppy after it leaves its birth home.
You may decide to use a written warranty. If the dog has a major health problem in the first 24 months, the sales price may be
completely or partially refunded. It goes without saying that puppy buyers should be treated as you would like to be treated in
their place.
You should not leave yourself open to being responsible for surgery or other veterinary costs that are above and beyond the
sales price of a puppy. There must be an age limit in months, after which you have no responsibility. That can depend on the
“goal” of the purchaser.
Sample Warranty A
This puppy is being sold as a pet quality puppy. Its parents have had the required health tests done according to ISAA rules. The
buyer has been made aware of those test results. This puppy is not intended for the Conformation Show ring and will not be
“breedable”. If it has puppies, the puppies may not be registered. This puppy may be entitled to enter Performance or Herding
Events. Before the registration papers are released to the purchaser, the buyer must complete paying for the puppy and may be
required to show proof of spaying or neutering.
Because the parents have had the health tests, the puppy should be OK genetically.
The seller does not breed or sell puppies with inherited genetic problems or issues on purpose. However, it is possible
because we are dealing with a living organism that a genetic problem may surface in spite of all the necessary parental tests
and precautions. Because this is not a breedable puppy, and because the expectations of the purchaser are somewhat lower
than the expectations of the purchaser of a show puppy, the standard for returning the puppy to the breeder should be lower.
If the buyer wishes to return the puppy, that should be done within 6 months of the purchase. It is easier to re-home a puppy
while still young than it is to find a suitable home for an adult dog.
Sample Warranty B
This puppy is being sold as a pet quality puppy or as a Performance or Herding show quality puppy. Its parents have had the
required health tests done according to ISAA rules. The buyer has been made aware of those test results. This puppy is not
intended for the Conformation Show ring but may still be “breedable”. If it has puppies, the puppies can be registered. This
puppy may be entitled to enter Performance or Herding Events. Before the registration papers are released to the purchaser, the
buyer must complete paying for the puppy
Because the parents have had the health tests, the puppy should be OK genetically.
The seller does not breed or sell puppies with inherited genetic problems or issues on purpose. However, it is possible
because we are dealing with a living organism that a genetic problem may surface in spite of all the necessary parental tests
and precautions. If the buyer’s goal is breeding as well as showing, the buyer should have the eyes and hips tested before
breeding. The CERF eye test may be done at any age and should be repeated annually. The PennHIP hip dysplasia test may be
done at 16 weeks of age and the results known soon after. The testing should be done before 6 months of age. If the puppy fails
to pass either or both of those tests, the puppy may be returned to the seller for a full or partial refund or as an exchange. If the
buyer wishes to return the puppy, the puppy returned as soon after the test results are known as possible. It is easier to re-home
a puppy while still young than it is to find a suitable home for an adult dog.
Sample Warranty C
This puppy is being sold as a Conformation Show and/or Performance or Herding show and/or breeding puppy. Its parents have
had the required health tests done according to ISAA rules. The buyer has been made aware of those test results. This puppy is
eligible for the Conformation Show ring and is “breedable” in the opinion of the breeder. If it has puppies, the puppies can be
registered. This puppy is also entitled to enter Performance or Herding Events. Before the registration papers are released to
the purchaser, the buyer must complete paying for the puppy
Because the parents have had the health tests, the puppy should be OK genetically.
The seller does not breed or sell puppies with inherited genetic problems or issues on purpose. However, it is possible
because we are dealing with a living organism that a genetic problem may surface in spite of all the necessary parental tests
and precautions. If the buyer’s goal is breeding as well as showing, the buyer should have the eyes and hips tested before
breeding. The CERF eye test may be done at any age and should be repeated annually. The PennHIP hip dysplasia test may be
done at 16 weeks of age and the results known soon after. The testing should be done before 6 months of age. If the puppy fails
to pass either or both of those tests, the puppy may be returned to the seller for a full or partial refund or as an exchange. If the
buyer wishes to return the puppy, the puppy returned as soon after the test results are known as possible. It is easier to re-home
a puppy while still young than it is to find a suitable home for an adult dog..
Do’s, Don’ts’ and Tips for taking pictures for the Web Site.
1. Use a large format setting on your camera.
2. Stay at least 3 feet from your subject.
3. Only fill 1/3 of the frame with the subject.
4. Take 0 through 3 week pictures on a smooth one color background. Red, light green or light blue works well.
5. Use a bounce flash if you need more light for the early indoor pictures.
6. Take pictures in natural sunlight if possible with the sun behind you. Pay attention to where your shadow falls.
7. Take 4 & 5 week old pictures outside, weather permitting.
8. Puppies in action draw more attention than one in an inactive posture. Laying and chewing on something is not the
same as just sitting.
9. Take “Stacked” photos weeks 6-8 for all unsold puppies. Outside action pictures for the rest or “stacked” pictures
of them.
10. Take pictures as close to eye level as possible.
11. Try to avoid indoor pictures of the puppies just sitting. Actually, try to avoid, after 3 weeks, any pictures of them sitting!
12. If you crop the pictures before sending them be sure the picture is at least 400 pixels wide.
13. Submit pictures every week. Prospective buyers want to see them grow and to know you care enough to keep current
pictures on the web site.
14. Send them to the web Master in large format if you want, he will crop them to the size he need for displaying on the
web site.
1. Use a large format setting on your camera.
2. Stay at least 3 feet from your subject.
3. Only fill 1/3 of the frame with the subject.
4. Take 0 through 3 week pictures on a smooth one color background. Red, light green or light blue works well.
5. Use a bounce flash if you need more light for the early indoor pictures.
6. Take pictures in natural sunlight if possible with the sun behind you. Pay attention to where your shadow falls.
7. Take 4 & 5 week old pictures outside, weather permitting.
8. Puppies in action draw more attention than one in an inactive posture. Laying and chewing on something is not the
same as just sitting.
9. Take “Stacked” photos weeks 6-8 for all unsold puppies. Outside action pictures for the rest or “stacked” pictures
of them.
10. Take pictures as close to eye level as possible.
11. Try to avoid indoor pictures of the puppies just sitting. Actually, try to avoid, after 3 weeks, any pictures of them sitting!
12. If you crop the pictures before sending them be sure the picture is at least 400 pixels wide.
13. Submit pictures every week. Prospective buyers want to see them grow and to know you care enough to keep current
pictures on the web site.
14. Send them to the web Master in large format if you want, he will crop them to the size he need for displaying on the
web site.
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Breeders Helpful Tips
| Here are some samples of A Puppy Application and Sales contracts. Please feel free to modify them to meet your needs. The Whelping Forms will help you get ready for your new litter and to keep track of information during the time the litter is with you. Other helpful information will be added to this page as it becomes available. |
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How To Read OFA Numbers
Hip Dysplasia
Example: IS-100E24M-PI
IS = Breed Code, in this case an Icelandic Sheepdog
100 = Ascending numerical identifier given to each animal within a breed evaluated as normal and given a number, in this case
the 100th Icelandic Sheepdog to be given a number
E = The phenotypic OFA evaluation, in this case E = Excellent, other normal phenotypes include G (Good) and F (Fair).
24 = The age in months when the testing was done, in this case 24 months
M = Sex, in this case a male
PI = Indicates that the animal has been permanently identified in the form of tattoo or microchip.
NOPI = Indicates that the animal lacks a permanent identification.
Elbow Dysplasia
Example: IS-EL500F36-PI
IS = Breed Code, in this case an Icelandic Sheepdog
EL = OFA Database, in this case Elbow (EL)
500 = Ascending numerical identifier given to each animal within a breed evaluated as normal and given a number, in this case
the 500th Icelandic Sheepdog to be given an elbow number
F = Sex
36 = The age in months when the testing was done, in this case 36 months
PI = Indicates that the animal has been permanently identified in the form of tattoo or microchip.
NOPI = Indicates that the animal lacks a permanent identification.
Cardiac
Example: DP-CA250/12M/C-PI
DP = Breed Code, in this case a Doberman Pinscher
CA = OFA Database, in this case Cardiac (CA)
250 = Ascending numerical identifier given to each animal with a breed evaluated as normal and given a number, in this case
the 250 th Doberman to be given a cardiac number
12 = The age in months when the testing was done, in this case 12 months
M = Sex
C = Suffix indicating the area of specialty of the attending veterinarian.
P = General Practitioner
S = Specialist
C = Board Certified Cardiologist
PI = Indicates that the animal has been permanently identified in the form of tattoo or microchip.
NOPI = Indicates that the animal lacks a permanent identification.
Thyroid
Example: ES-TH800/14F-PI
ES = Breed Code, in this case an English Setter
TH = OFA Database, in this case Thyroid (TH)
800 = Ascending numerical identifier given to each animal with a breed evaluated as normal and given a number, in this case
the 800 th English Setter to be given a thyroid number
14 = The age in months when the testing was done, in this case 14 months
F = Sex
PI = Indicates that the animal has been permanently identified in the form of tattoo or microchip.
NOPI = Indicates that the animal lacks a permanent identification.
Deafness
Example: HAV-BR5/8F-PI
HAV= Breed Code, in this case a Havanese
BR = OFA Database, in this case Deafness (BR - BAER Test)
5 = Ascending numerical identifier given to each animal with a breed evaluated as normal and given a number, in this case the
5 th Havanese to be given a BAER number
8 = The age in months when the testing was done, in this case 8 months
F = Sex
PI = Indicates that the animal has been permanently identified in the form of tattoo or microchip.
NOPI = Indicates that the animal lacks a permanent identification.
Patellar Luxation
Example: PO-PA85/18M/S-PI
PO = Breed Code, in this case a Poodle
PA = OFA Database, in this case Patellar Luxation (PA)
85 = Ascending numerical identifier given to each animal with a breed evaluated as normal and given a number, in this case
the 85 th Poodle to be given a patella number
18 = The age in months when the testing was done, in this case 18 months
M = Sex
S = Suffix indicating the area of specialty of the attending veterinarian.
P = General Practitioner
S = Specialist
O = Orthopedic Surgeon
PI = Indicates that the animal has been permanently identified in the form of tattoo or microchip.
NOPI = Indicates that the animal lacks a permanent identification.
Sebaceous Adenitis
Example: PO-SA750/60M-PI
PO = Breed Code, in this case a Poodle
SA = OFA Database, in this case Sebaceous Adenitis (SA)
750 = Ascending numerical identifier given to each animal with a breed evaluated as normal and given a number, in this case
the 750 th Poodle to be given an SA number
60 = The age in months when the testing was done, in this case 60 months
M = Sex
PI = Indicates that the animal has been permanently identified in the form of tattoo or microchip.
NOPI = Indicates that the animal lacks a permanent identification.
Legg-Calve-Perthes
Example: MP-LP1/15M-PI
MP= Breed Code, in this case a Miniature Pinscher
LP = OFA Database, in this case Legg-Calve-Perthes (LP)
1 = Ascending numerical identifier given to each animal with a breed evaluated as normal and given a number, in this case the
1st Min Pin to be given a Legg Perthes number
15 = The age in months when the testing was done, in this case 15 months
M = Sex
PI - Indicates that the animal has been permanently identified in the form of tattoo or microchip.
NOPI = Indicates that the animal lacks a permanent identification.
DNA
Example: NF-CY500/4F-PI
NF = Breed Code, in this case a Newfoundland
CY = OFA Database, in this case Cystinuria (CY). OFA DNA Databases include:
CLAD = Canine Leukocyte Adhesion Deficiency
CSNB = Congenital Stationary Night Blindness
CT = Copper Toxicosis
CY = Cystinuria
PFK = Phosphofructokinase Deficiency
PRA = Progressive Retinal Atrophy
PK = Pyruvate Kinase Deficiency
RD = Renal Dysplasia
VWD - Von Willebrand's Disease
500 = Ascending numerical identifier given to each animal with a breed evaluated as normal and given a number, in this case
the 500 th Newfoundland to be given a Cystinuria number
4 = The age in months when the testing was done, in this case 4 months
F = Sex
PI = Indicates that the animal has been permanently identified in the form of tattoo or microchip.
NOPI = Indicates that the animal lacks a permanent identification.
BP = By Parentage
CAR = Carrier